Tag Archives: Toile

Final Garments…

What?!! Two posts in one day?! That’s right, your eyes aren’t deceiving you. No outfit post, will try and do one later but need to write a journal entry on the construction of my final garments, which apart from sewing some press studs into the ruffle skirted women’s dress are finished!!! I feel like such a huge weight has been lifted, I still have things to do such as putting together a book of all my samples but I feel like I should get everything done  in the time I have left (7 days eeeeeeekks!!)

So there are images of the children’s dresses in my previous posts but I wanted to show some close up shots so that I could talk about the construction in a bit more detail:

The wing sleeved dress:

I’ve written a lot about the construction of this dress already but just a few overall reflections; this dress has been the most expensive to produce, even more than any of the womenswear. This is primarily because of my fabric choices; the main dress is sand-washed silk, the sleeves and collar silk georgette and the lining is silk twill. The sleeves have also been a major expense, when the fabric is pleated you have to allow 3 times as much as you would normally require; this meant that for the sleeves on a dress for 7 year old I required 3metres of fabric! The pleated fabric has also been quite difficult to work with, I think that if you were to use it on a more commercial scale then it would be for simpler garments such as a skirt or for finishing touches such as the collar. Hemming this fabric also proved problematic, I decided that the best way was to keep the edges raw and seal them with fray stop; this has kept the fragile and delicate feel that I was aiming for. The sand-washed silk I’ve used for the main dress is beautiful, it’s very tactile and has enough weight to it that it hangs really beautifully without being too heavy. It creases very easily though and the creases are difficult to press out, especially as I don’t want to risk getting steam any where near the pleated fabric.

The Dragonfly Box-Pleated Dress:

This dress is made in age 2 and looks so cute! I’m really pleased with this, I fitted the toile to the model and then spent about 5 hours on Saturday hand painting the dragonfly wing pattern onto the dress. I then stitched the box pleats into place and the way they break up the print design is more effective than I had ever imagined. I really love this one, which is funny because it was originally the one that was my least favourite! I’m actually looking into the possibility of putting this into production at the moment, obviously this would mean getting the wing design made into a screen. I have put a facing in this dress that finishes just under the arms, I was finding it particularly difficult around the armholes as I wanted the finish to be as professional as possible. This tutorial I found on Fashion Incubator was really useful though and I’m very proud of the end result. Here’s a close up of the pleated and printed fabric, you can see how the lines of the print are broken up by the pleating:

 I didn’t want to machine stitch the hem as I didn’t want a line of  stitching interfering with the bottom of the box pleats, for this reason I pressed the hem under and then caught it to the dress with a slip-stitch.

The Dandelion Pin-tucked Dress:

I don’t think I actually had any problems putting this dress together! The pintucks look beautiful and match up perfectly on the front and back at the shoulder seams:

I had originally intended just to have the dandelion painted in gold but it just didn’t stand out enough and so I’ve added some fine detail with the brown I used on the dragonfly dresses. I also drew the design on with a disappearing fabric pen so that I didn’t risk messing the design up. Again, I am really pleased with the end result of this dress and would consider putting this into production: perhaps with fewer pintucks though as there is 36 altogether on the front and back!!

I will write a post about the womenswear dresses tomorrow once I have taken some photos of them on a mannequin.

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Pastel Pop….

Dress: Vintage

Shoes: Irregular Choice

Nails: Numerous shades of Barry M

The past week I think I’ve worked harder than I’ve ever worked before. Hence the lack of blog posts. I’m pretty much surviving on coffee at the moment but I finally feel like it’s paying off, things are really starting to come together. As I haven’t done a post for a whole week I have a huge amount to write about, so make yourself a coffee and settle in for a while…..

Firstly here’s a picture of the pintucked and pleated women’s dress that I recently blogged about, I’ve made the bias-cut slip to go underneath it and it really finishes it off. I used a silk twill for the lining, it’s a bit thicker than the ponge I was going to use and so I don’t feel concerned that the dress would still be too sheer. It was quite strange putting it together, as it is a 1920s pattern the seam allowance on it was 1/2″. I’m used to sewing 1cm seam allowances and to sew such a wide one seemed more difficult!! It also didn’t look as neat once I’d pressed it open to have such a wide seam so I have overlocked the extra off to make it look neater on the inside.

This has been one of the hardest things I’ve ever done but I am really pleased with it. The only thing left to do is to sew in the press studs and finish the hem. I’ve decided that the best way to do this is to just use fray stop on the edge, I think that anything else I do to the pleated edge will spoil the line of it and look to bulky.

This is the pintucked bodice for the second ladies dress:

Again, I am immensely proud of the construction of this. The silk chiffon I have used for both these dresses has been very challenging to work with as it is so slippy and stretchy. I’ve french seamed the armholes, neckline and all side seams. It looks perfect and I feel that it is made to professional standard. I’ve tried to take a photograph of one of the french seams but I’m not sure if you can really tell what it is:

This bodice is ready to be sewn onto the ruffle skirt, I have been fray stopping the raw edges every evening for the past week! I’m almost there, if I were to make this again I would probably have used something that wouldn’t fray so badly so that I wouldn’t have had this extra labourious task. But then on the other hand I don’t think anything else would have the same effect, it falls so beautifully and feels so light and delicate. Here’s a little close up to give you an idea:

This week I’ve also been working on the final ladies dress, I thought this one was going to be really straight forward but as per usual it was harder and took longer than I expected!!! It was the pintucked panels that caused me the problems…again! I had thought that as the silk linen is much crisper they would be easier to keep even, but I stitched the first three and they just didn’t look quite right. They weren’t perfectly straight or the perfect distance apart even though I had notched and pressed the tucks first. The only way I could overcome this was to unpick them and draw on the lines with a vanishing pen. This kept them the right distance apart and lovely and straight:

I’ve also hand painted the wing design onto the other panels:

This technique has been really effective, the wing is obviously very stylized. If I had done it exactly it would have taken me even longer, each little section would also have been much larger and I just don’t think that it would have had the same impact. I think that it has as much of an impact as printing the image would have done and the lines still look beautifully crisp. On the bottom panel I did have to extend the wing a little further across than I had originally planned, just as I was putting everything away I got a spot of the fabric paint about 8cm away from where I had finished the wing. I wanted to cry, but I have managed to extend it so that it doesn’t just look like I’ve stuck a bit extra on. On my original drawing I had planned to put a small painted section on the bottom left hand corner of the skirt too, but after I had done all the right hand side I have decided that any more on it would be a bit overwhelming and take away from the impact that it has. So this dress is all ready to be joined together too. That means the womenswear designs are almost complete.

Today I’ve also fitted the last two of the childrenswear toiles to the models.  I need to shorten the sleeve length on the dandelion pintucked dress by about 7cm as I want it to be just below the elbow but other than that it fits her perfectly. The child’s dragonfly dress also fitted well although the little girl is small for her age and I have had to shorten the dress length by approximately 5cm. I’ve got these cut out and overlocked now and so am planning on get the hand painting done on them tomorrow and then fully constructed on Sunday. I’m hoping to photograph the dragonfly dress on Monday afternoon and the Dandelion one next Friday. I’ve found a location just down the road from uni so I’m hoping it won’t be too much hassle for the children’s parents to get them there:

I have also completely finished the pleated wing sleeved child’s dress so this is ready to be photographed too. However, I need to speak to my lecturer Lindsay (it’s her daughter modelling this dress) to see whether she might be available for a photoshoot next Friday too. I haven’t taken a photo of it but it looks really beautiful, simple yet striking. The pleated fabric did actually make it rather more difficult to put together than I had expected though!! As with the ladies dress with the pleated panels, I had cut the wings out whilst still between its special layers of paper and then stitched across the top edge to hold the pleats in place before carefully tearing the paper out. I don’t know if it was because they were much larger pieces and not just a straight edge but the paper was much, much more difficult to remove from inside the pleats. In fact it was a total nightmare and although I was ridiculously careful when removing the little remnant of paper it did pull the pleats out of line ever so slightly. Even with the line of stitching holding them in place, it was really difficult to keep them perfect when putting them into the side seams of the dress. I was worried about this, particularly because the pleated fabric is silk georgette that frays even more so than the chiffon of the ladies dresses and so I really didn’t want to risk having to unpick it. The only way I could eliminate this risk was to tack them in by hand and notch where the sleeve should end on the side seam, ensuring they were level. Another time consuming task! I will write more about this dress tomorrow once I’ve taken some photos of it, the light in here is too bad to get decent pictures of it.


All Tucked Out….

I’m sorry for the unexplained absence over the past week, things have been pretty hectic; I’ve worked a few extra shifts, been to London, doing uni work and feeling a bit under the weather. So I have lots to tell you about! I’ll split it down over the next few days postings.

All my paper patterns are done now, I just need to toile the third ladies dress and I’ve made good progress with this today. This is the dress I talked about in my last post, the skirt is made up of 10 panels; 5 of vertical pleats and 5 of horizontal pin-tucks. It’s taken me absolutely ages today but I’ve sewn all the horizontal tucks into the 5 panels. It may not sound like a great deal but each panel has 48 tucks, so in total I’ve sewn 240 pin-tucks today!!! If I see another one I may scream; my neck, shoulders and back feel like one solid piece of rock! It should be worth it, the panels I’ve done look lovely. I want to see if there’s an easier way to keep the tucks really neat and consistent though, as they are so tiny it’s really easy to go off the edge of the fold and then the stitches aren’t catching anything. The “Sewing Technique Bible” advises pressing the tucks into place before stitching them, this does make it easier to see where the stitches should be but doesn’t make any difference to the fabric slipping out of place. I will try and find out if there is anything I can do to make this easier, but if anyone reading this has any tips I would be very greatful?

I will start outfit posting again tomorrow, I promise. In the mean time I was looking through my old photos and found this one of an outfit I haven’t worn for about 6 months. Think I will try and wear this hat one day soon before winter is well and truly over:

Dress: Disorder

Shoes: Irregular Choice

Hat: The Village Scandal


Go Grease Lightning…..

I feel a bit like an extra from Grease in this outfit!! I wanted to wear my pleated skirt but make it a bit more casual than when I wore it with my Chanel style blouse, I think it works quite well. What do you think?

Pleated Skirt: ASOS

T-shirt: New Look

Frilly Socks: American Apparel

Pumps: New Look

Just a short post really, I’ve been working on the pattern and now the toile of the ruffle skirt of the second womenswear dress. It’s going well I think, but is going to use approximately 5 meters of fabric!!! I’m hoping to get the toile finished tomorrow and then I’ll be able to evaluate it properly.

I did have a minor melt down last night, panicking about how long I have left to produce 6 outfits! But after work today I sat down in a coffee shop and made myself a nice little timetable for the next few days; doing this always calms me down as it helps me to see how to actually make things achievable. The most important thing I need to do is work out my fabric meterages so that I can purchase everything when I go to London on Monday.


Wearing a Giant Hat of Cleverness!

I got home from London to find that my Dad had sent me a card to say well done for getting onto my course:

Isn’t it brilliant?! I’ve set it as my wallpaper on my laptop and am going to put it in a frame on my wall.

I worked from home yesterday so no outfit post but I did get the toile of one of the womenswear dresses finished, it’s toiled in calico so it doesn’t fall so well as it will in the proper fabric:

There is another pleated layer which will join into the seam of the waistband and skirt but the main point was to get the idea of how the pintucks would look and how the dress would fit as I’ve had to mess around with the darts quite a lot. Over all I’m really pleased with this, I think the pintucks look really effective. I still had to ease the bodice into the top of the waistband a lot though, I think the front waistband could do with another 1cm (0.5cm on each side) really. I think I’m going to take about 15cm off the length too.