Tag Archives: Pleating

One down, One to go…..

All work for start-up planning and promotion is now submittted!!! I wish that meant that I could rest as I am completely shattered, but instead I’ve come home and made a to do list of things left to do for my FMP! Before I get started on the list, I thought I should take the time to write an overall reflection and evaluation of my womenswear final garments.

Dress one, pintucks and pleats:

I adore this dress, the pleats and the pintucks work so well together. It has caused me so much heartache and tears, but I think the above photo shows that it’s been worth it. I’ve talked about the problems I had constructing this dress before: joining the skirt panels whilst still keeping the pleats hanging correctly, it just isn’t possible to join all the panels with french seams as I had wanted to do because of the width of the panels, I could have joined one side of a pleated panel with a french seam but not the other. To even join one side I would have needed double the amount of the blue chiffon, which would have made the costs of this dress sky rocket. I am also unable press these skirt panel seams open as it would destroy the pleats; I hope that I don’t get marked down for this or the fact that the seams are not all the same. I shouldn’t do because it isn’t as though I’ve just joined it together any old way, I’ve had to do it this way to make sure that it looks right. I have finished the bottom edge of the dress using fray stop, even a tiny little rolled hem spoils the line of the pleats.

Dress 2, the ruffle and pintucked dress:

This is the dress that I started first and finished last!!! Mainly due to the fact that I had to fray stop every raw edge on the skirt, and as you can see there is a lot! It’s my own fault, I could have used a fabric that didn’t fray so easily as chiffon or cut the edges with pinking shears but I don’t think that anything else would have been as effective as this. I didn’t want pinked edges, they don’t look as fragile and natural as the raw cut edges do and that was the whole point of it: fragility and nature. Fastening this and the first dress with clear plastic press studs was definitely the best option: they are so light you can’t even tell they’re there once the dresses are fastened. The only problem is that they aren’t very strong and on this dress one or two did pop open, not what you want to happen on the catwalk!!! So I will  need to add a couple more to try to reduce this risk.

Dress 3, Dragonfly print and pintucked dress:

I’ve talked about the construction of this dress in quite a lot of detail previously but hadn’t photographed it on a mannequin. I am pleased with the construction and I love the colour. I used the same method from Fashion Incubator to join the lining to the dress as I used on the child’s dragonfly dress. This website is an excellent resource, it’s enabled me to give the dress a much more professional finish around the neck and armholes than catching it in by hand around the armholes would have done. Because of the pintucked sections on this dress, I had to manipulate the basic block to remove the darts. It has worked well, although it isn’t as close fitting as I would like; it’s just not possible to contour it to the body perfectly without darts. But it still looks beautiful.

Now to crack on with my list!!


Womenswear Photoshoots….

We did the womenswear photoshoots yesterday, I couldn’t be happier with how it went:

A couple of the models were only available in the morning and as I was at work I had to make sure the photographer (Dave from TimeToShoot) and the models knew exactly what shots I was looking for. I’m really happy to have used professional models, I really want it to look like a student collection. I had already created a photoshoot inspiration board to submit as part of this module and so emailed it to them all:

I also sent them this photo I had found, I thought this would be perfect to recreate in the shoot and as you can see from the contact sheet I was right!

I asked them all to keep hair and make up very simple and natural as I wanted the main focus to be on the dresses and the lighting. Thankfully we were extremely lucky with the weather once again, we finished up at 4pm and just as we were loading everything into the car it started to rain!

It was a good experience, I enjoyed being there to direct the models in the afternoon. It was also useful to not be at the shoots in the morning though, it meant I had to create a really clear brief for the models and the photographer to ensure the end result was exactly as I wanted.


Final Garments…

What?!! Two posts in one day?! That’s right, your eyes aren’t deceiving you. No outfit post, will try and do one later but need to write a journal entry on the construction of my final garments, which apart from sewing some press studs into the ruffle skirted women’s dress are finished!!! I feel like such a huge weight has been lifted, I still have things to do such as putting together a book of all my samples but I feel like I should get everything done  in the time I have left (7 days eeeeeeekks!!)

So there are images of the children’s dresses in my previous posts but I wanted to show some close up shots so that I could talk about the construction in a bit more detail:

The wing sleeved dress:

I’ve written a lot about the construction of this dress already but just a few overall reflections; this dress has been the most expensive to produce, even more than any of the womenswear. This is primarily because of my fabric choices; the main dress is sand-washed silk, the sleeves and collar silk georgette and the lining is silk twill. The sleeves have also been a major expense, when the fabric is pleated you have to allow 3 times as much as you would normally require; this meant that for the sleeves on a dress for 7 year old I required 3metres of fabric! The pleated fabric has also been quite difficult to work with, I think that if you were to use it on a more commercial scale then it would be for simpler garments such as a skirt or for finishing touches such as the collar. Hemming this fabric also proved problematic, I decided that the best way was to keep the edges raw and seal them with fray stop; this has kept the fragile and delicate feel that I was aiming for. The sand-washed silk I’ve used for the main dress is beautiful, it’s very tactile and has enough weight to it that it hangs really beautifully without being too heavy. It creases very easily though and the creases are difficult to press out, especially as I don’t want to risk getting steam any where near the pleated fabric.

The Dragonfly Box-Pleated Dress:

This dress is made in age 2 and looks so cute! I’m really pleased with this, I fitted the toile to the model and then spent about 5 hours on Saturday hand painting the dragonfly wing pattern onto the dress. I then stitched the box pleats into place and the way they break up the print design is more effective than I had ever imagined. I really love this one, which is funny because it was originally the one that was my least favourite! I’m actually looking into the possibility of putting this into production at the moment, obviously this would mean getting the wing design made into a screen. I have put a facing in this dress that finishes just under the arms, I was finding it particularly difficult around the armholes as I wanted the finish to be as professional as possible. This tutorial I found on Fashion Incubator was really useful though and I’m very proud of the end result. Here’s a close up of the pleated and printed fabric, you can see how the lines of the print are broken up by the pleating:

 I didn’t want to machine stitch the hem as I didn’t want a line of  stitching interfering with the bottom of the box pleats, for this reason I pressed the hem under and then caught it to the dress with a slip-stitch.

The Dandelion Pin-tucked Dress:

I don’t think I actually had any problems putting this dress together! The pintucks look beautiful and match up perfectly on the front and back at the shoulder seams:

I had originally intended just to have the dandelion painted in gold but it just didn’t stand out enough and so I’ve added some fine detail with the brown I used on the dragonfly dresses. I also drew the design on with a disappearing fabric pen so that I didn’t risk messing the design up. Again, I am really pleased with the end result of this dress and would consider putting this into production: perhaps with fewer pintucks though as there is 36 altogether on the front and back!!

I will write a post about the womenswear dresses tomorrow once I have taken some photos of them on a mannequin.


Pastel Pop….

Dress: Vintage

Shoes: Irregular Choice

Nails: Numerous shades of Barry M

The past week I think I’ve worked harder than I’ve ever worked before. Hence the lack of blog posts. I’m pretty much surviving on coffee at the moment but I finally feel like it’s paying off, things are really starting to come together. As I haven’t done a post for a whole week I have a huge amount to write about, so make yourself a coffee and settle in for a while…..

Firstly here’s a picture of the pintucked and pleated women’s dress that I recently blogged about, I’ve made the bias-cut slip to go underneath it and it really finishes it off. I used a silk twill for the lining, it’s a bit thicker than the ponge I was going to use and so I don’t feel concerned that the dress would still be too sheer. It was quite strange putting it together, as it is a 1920s pattern the seam allowance on it was 1/2″. I’m used to sewing 1cm seam allowances and to sew such a wide one seemed more difficult!! It also didn’t look as neat once I’d pressed it open to have such a wide seam so I have overlocked the extra off to make it look neater on the inside.

This has been one of the hardest things I’ve ever done but I am really pleased with it. The only thing left to do is to sew in the press studs and finish the hem. I’ve decided that the best way to do this is to just use fray stop on the edge, I think that anything else I do to the pleated edge will spoil the line of it and look to bulky.

This is the pintucked bodice for the second ladies dress:

Again, I am immensely proud of the construction of this. The silk chiffon I have used for both these dresses has been very challenging to work with as it is so slippy and stretchy. I’ve french seamed the armholes, neckline and all side seams. It looks perfect and I feel that it is made to professional standard. I’ve tried to take a photograph of one of the french seams but I’m not sure if you can really tell what it is:

This bodice is ready to be sewn onto the ruffle skirt, I have been fray stopping the raw edges every evening for the past week! I’m almost there, if I were to make this again I would probably have used something that wouldn’t fray so badly so that I wouldn’t have had this extra labourious task. But then on the other hand I don’t think anything else would have the same effect, it falls so beautifully and feels so light and delicate. Here’s a little close up to give you an idea:

This week I’ve also been working on the final ladies dress, I thought this one was going to be really straight forward but as per usual it was harder and took longer than I expected!!! It was the pintucked panels that caused me the problems…again! I had thought that as the silk linen is much crisper they would be easier to keep even, but I stitched the first three and they just didn’t look quite right. They weren’t perfectly straight or the perfect distance apart even though I had notched and pressed the tucks first. The only way I could overcome this was to unpick them and draw on the lines with a vanishing pen. This kept them the right distance apart and lovely and straight:

I’ve also hand painted the wing design onto the other panels:

This technique has been really effective, the wing is obviously very stylized. If I had done it exactly it would have taken me even longer, each little section would also have been much larger and I just don’t think that it would have had the same impact. I think that it has as much of an impact as printing the image would have done and the lines still look beautifully crisp. On the bottom panel I did have to extend the wing a little further across than I had originally planned, just as I was putting everything away I got a spot of the fabric paint about 8cm away from where I had finished the wing. I wanted to cry, but I have managed to extend it so that it doesn’t just look like I’ve stuck a bit extra on. On my original drawing I had planned to put a small painted section on the bottom left hand corner of the skirt too, but after I had done all the right hand side I have decided that any more on it would be a bit overwhelming and take away from the impact that it has. So this dress is all ready to be joined together too. That means the womenswear designs are almost complete.

Today I’ve also fitted the last two of the childrenswear toiles to the models.  I need to shorten the sleeve length on the dandelion pintucked dress by about 7cm as I want it to be just below the elbow but other than that it fits her perfectly. The child’s dragonfly dress also fitted well although the little girl is small for her age and I have had to shorten the dress length by approximately 5cm. I’ve got these cut out and overlocked now and so am planning on get the hand painting done on them tomorrow and then fully constructed on Sunday. I’m hoping to photograph the dragonfly dress on Monday afternoon and the Dandelion one next Friday. I’ve found a location just down the road from uni so I’m hoping it won’t be too much hassle for the children’s parents to get them there:

I have also completely finished the pleated wing sleeved child’s dress so this is ready to be photographed too. However, I need to speak to my lecturer Lindsay (it’s her daughter modelling this dress) to see whether she might be available for a photoshoot next Friday too. I haven’t taken a photo of it but it looks really beautiful, simple yet striking. The pleated fabric did actually make it rather more difficult to put together than I had expected though!! As with the ladies dress with the pleated panels, I had cut the wings out whilst still between its special layers of paper and then stitched across the top edge to hold the pleats in place before carefully tearing the paper out. I don’t know if it was because they were much larger pieces and not just a straight edge but the paper was much, much more difficult to remove from inside the pleats. In fact it was a total nightmare and although I was ridiculously careful when removing the little remnant of paper it did pull the pleats out of line ever so slightly. Even with the line of stitching holding them in place, it was really difficult to keep them perfect when putting them into the side seams of the dress. I was worried about this, particularly because the pleated fabric is silk georgette that frays even more so than the chiffon of the ladies dresses and so I really didn’t want to risk having to unpick it. The only way I could eliminate this risk was to tack them in by hand and notch where the sleeve should end on the side seam, ensuring they were level. Another time consuming task! I will write more about this dress tomorrow once I’ve taken some photos of it, the light in here is too bad to get decent pictures of it.


Difficulties and Successes…

I’m sorry there’s no outfit post but I’ve been shut in my mum’s studio all weekend sewing.

Well the past few days have certainly been challenging, I’ve been working on the pintucked and pleated dress. I can honestly say it is the most complicated thing that I have ever constructed. To begin with I had been really pleased with myself that I had thought to cut the pleated fabric whilst still in its special paper holding it perfectly still and stitched a line across the pleats at the top and bottom to hold the pleats in place once the paper was removed. These are all the panels once I’d cut and overlocked them:

And the paper that held the pleats:

Even the paper looks beautiful! I was worried the bottom edge would make the pleats sit strangely but it actually works ok:

My next step was to join all the pintucked and pleated panels together, this was where the problems arose.  I had intended to join them all with french seams but because the quantity of fabric was so limited each panel ended either in either the inner fold or outer fold of a pleat, if I had just carried on with my french seams on some of the panels the pleats wouldn’t sit correctly. As I joined each section I had to work out where my stitch line could be for the pleats to sit properly once turned the right way. The fabric has been really difficult to work with too, there is so much stretch to it that I had to use about a million pleats and then baste before I could sew. Once I had worked out what I needed to do though it was much better, it was tricky but I actually started to feel like I was making real progress. I’ve constructed the bodice and the waistband. These and the skirt are ready to be joined together now, but I’ve decided to sew each section onto ribbon to make the seams stronger so I need to go and buy this tomorrow. Then it’s ready for the lining and fastenings. I bought some small coverable buttons on Saturday but I think that even these would be to heavy for the lightness of this dress, I think the only option is to use clear plastic press studs so it’s back to the haberdashery tomorrow.

I’m at work tomorrow but I’ve got a list of digital fabric printing companies to call in my lunch break. I was really pleased that I’ve found several companies that will print on fabric that I supply rather than their own fabrics but after reading in detail on one of the websites, they use different types of ink on silk and linen. My fabric is a silk linen blend so I’m worried they may not be able to print onto it. I’d really like to have the fabric printed professionally but screen printing it myself may be the only option.


Making Good Progress……

I had a brilliant day yesterday, Dave and his mum had gone to watch Stoke play at Wembley. Whilst I obviously missed him, it was a great opportunity to turn the dining room into a sewing room and I was so pleased with everything I got done. I’ve completely finished toiling the last ladies dress and also completed the toile of the second ladies dress (the one with the ruffled skirt). I’m so so happy with how they both look, I think they’re going to be breath taking when made in the real fabrics. I’m going over to my mum’s tomorrow after work so will be able to photograph them both on the stand and assess the fit of them properly. I’ve tried them both on and although they are obviously far too big, there doesn’t seem to be anything majorly wrong.  I do need to extend the back bodice on dress 2 by 6cm and the whole bodice on dress 3; I used my bodice block rather than my dress block and didn’t check the length.

I have packed my fabric and sent it to be pleated today too, it’s really exciting and also a relief to feel like I’m actually making some progress with things now. My plan for Tuesday and Wednesday is to get as much cut out and overlocked at my mum’s as I can and  then I can always continue sewing at home if I’ve got all the edges overlocked.  I also want to get my sketchbook as near to being finished as I can, there’s lots of drawings I’ve done and haven’t stuck in and a lot of annotation to do. At the moment I don’t feel that it clearly tells the story of my collection and I think that’s really important. My research has been one of my weaker areas before and so I don’t want this to bring my marks down.

I haven’t really got any uni work done today as I was modelling for a photoshoot in an upcoming magazine Prototype, the magazine is being launched by my friend Laura. Today’s outfit post is a sneak peak from the shoot, photography by the very talented Dave:

Dress: Topshop

Boots: ASOS

Tights: Topshop

Necklace: Accessorize

Denim Jacket: H&M


A bit of everything….

Lots of things to write about:

I’ve decided on my brand name for my business module; I started researching fairy names as I wanted something that fitted my illustration style. I came across the name “Adorabelle” and it seems perfect; feminine and child-like but not to girly and cutesie. After that I previewed it in many different fonts to develop my logo. It’s important to find the perfect font, Lindsey gave us a handout last week showing that the Coca-Cola logo has stayed the same for the life of the product where as Pepsi has changed multiple times over the same period. The fact that Coca-Cola is so much more successful demonstrates the importance of brand identity and so I felt it important to be really sure of my choice of font.

I’ve also been working on the toile of my second dress, this is how the front bodice looks pinned to the stand:

It fits the stand really well, I’m pleased as this means that all my dart manipulation has been successful. The next step is to toile it with the tucks, these will be where I’ve drawn the red lines at the moment and then to toile the skirt. I had originally planned to line the skirt but after showing Tracey the sample I had done (see my post “Raw Edged Beauty” we both agreed that adding a lining will make the skirt feel to heavy as I want it to be light, flowing and delicate.

This is what I wore yesterday, I put on tights and boots as it was so cold and foggy I couldn’t see to the end of the drive! But then I went out at lunch to get a coffee and the sun had broken through and I felt completely overdressed for the weather:

Leather Jacket: River Island

Fur Waistcoat: Topshop

Pleated Leopard Print Skirt: River Island

Leopard Print Tights: Topshop

Boots: River Island

Silk Headscarf: Present from a friend from China

I’ve got into nail art lately, it’s a nice little thing for me to do in the evening to switch my brain off from uni stuff etc:

Blue: Barry M 295 Pale Turquoise

Yellow: Barry M 134 Yellow

I just bought myself a matt nude and top coat from Claire’s Accessories today, think I’m going to do nude with matt black tips later.