Tag Archives: Pintucks

One down, One to go…..

All work for start-up planning and promotion is now submittted!!! I wish that meant that I could rest as I am completely shattered, but instead I’ve come home and made a to do list of things left to do for my FMP! Before I get started on the list, I thought I should take the time to write an overall reflection and evaluation of my womenswear final garments.

Dress one, pintucks and pleats:

I adore this dress, the pleats and the pintucks work so well together. It has caused me so much heartache and tears, but I think the above photo shows that it’s been worth it. I’ve talked about the problems I had constructing this dress before: joining the skirt panels whilst still keeping the pleats hanging correctly, it just isn’t possible to join all the panels with french seams as I had wanted to do because of the width of the panels, I could have joined one side of a pleated panel with a french seam but not the other. To even join one side I would have needed double the amount of the blue chiffon, which would have made the costs of this dress sky rocket. I am also unable press these skirt panel seams open as it would destroy the pleats; I hope that I don’t get marked down for this or the fact that the seams are not all the same. I shouldn’t do because it isn’t as though I’ve just joined it together any old way, I’ve had to do it this way to make sure that it looks right. I have finished the bottom edge of the dress using fray stop, even a tiny little rolled hem spoils the line of the pleats.

Dress 2, the ruffle and pintucked dress:

This is the dress that I started first and finished last!!! Mainly due to the fact that I had to fray stop every raw edge on the skirt, and as you can see there is a lot! It’s my own fault, I could have used a fabric that didn’t fray so easily as chiffon or cut the edges with pinking shears but I don’t think that anything else would have been as effective as this. I didn’t want pinked edges, they don’t look as fragile and natural as the raw cut edges do and that was the whole point of it: fragility and nature. Fastening this and the first dress with clear plastic press studs was definitely the best option: they are so light you can’t even tell they’re there once the dresses are fastened. The only problem is that they aren’t very strong and on this dress one or two did pop open, not what you want to happen on the catwalk!!! So I will  need to add a couple more to try to reduce this risk.

Dress 3, Dragonfly print and pintucked dress:

I’ve talked about the construction of this dress in quite a lot of detail previously but hadn’t photographed it on a mannequin. I am pleased with the construction and I love the colour. I used the same method from Fashion Incubator to join the lining to the dress as I used on the child’s dragonfly dress. This website is an excellent resource, it’s enabled me to give the dress a much more professional finish around the neck and armholes than catching it in by hand around the armholes would have done. Because of the pintucked sections on this dress, I had to manipulate the basic block to remove the darts. It has worked well, although it isn’t as close fitting as I would like; it’s just not possible to contour it to the body perfectly without darts. But it still looks beautiful.

Now to crack on with my list!!


Hardly Dressed For a Wedding….

This was my outfit today, I felt very under-dressed with the entire world watching and talking about the Royal Wedding! I must confess the whole thing brought a tear to my eye, and the dress…..Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen would be proud.

Shirt and Shorts: Topshop

Boots: River Island

Aside from watching the wedding, I have actually got a lot of work done today. As per usual things took longer than I expected and it took me until 7pm to finish sewing the pintucks into the bodice of the ruffle skirted dress. I was beginning to wonder why I seemed to have designed things that are so fiddly and time consuming but I’m pleased (and relieved) to say that I think it’s really going to be worth it. I also trialled using fray stop on a raw edge of the chiffon, there is a slight change in colour where you put it but I don’t think it would be noticable and it truly stops the fabric from fraying. I think I’m going to need a fair few bottles though, it’s going to be a very long job that one!! Apart from that though (which I’m going to leave till last anyway) this dress is very much on it’s way to being finished. I  need to get some coverable buttons tomorrow and then make a lining for it. This is a job in itself though, I’ve been reading up on cutting bias-patterns in my Helen Joseph-Armstrong pattern cutting book to see how best to do it. Think that’s tomorrow afternoon sorted anyway!!