Making a pattern for the toile…

It’s taken me ages because it’s been so fiddley, but I’ve finally got a new paper pattern for my toile:

It utilises the way that I have decided to create the cubes and is for the design I have developed from Jayne’s original. I traced out the dress block to be one piece rather than on the half and dropped the neckline by 3cm as the neckline on the block is very high and close fitting. I made numerous cube patterns in varying sizes: 5cm, 7.5cm and 9cm. When I made the original toile pattern I stuck a fully formed cube straight onto the dress block, drew the style/seam lines from the corners of the cubes and then had great difficulty cutting it into the actual pattern pieces. To combat this I first drew the squares onto the block in the positions I wanted them and cut them away so that I had square shaped holes. I then drew all my style lines connecting the different cubes and also to the edges of the pattern. Piece by piece as I cut the style lines, I also attached the cube patterns to fit into where the holes were. I had wanted to keep the pattern in as few pieces as possible but the 3D element of the cubes meant that when laid flat some areas overlapped, obviously this made it impossible for these areas to be cut from one piece of fabric. To overcome this, I have had to one or two edges of a couple of the cubes as a free edge to be reattached into place when sewn. I’m not sure how easy that is to understand but it’s very difficult to explain! Anyway, I have ended up with 7 pattern pieces for the dress front, which is still pretty good going! I need to mark and notch all the cube edges on the pattern to have a stitched line to keep the cube edges more defined. A possible problem that I anticipate is the grainline of the pieces, I’m worried with all the different angles that the cubes won’t sit correctly. I need to add seam allowances and then I’ll be able to sew it together and find out.

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